Exploring Papa Westray (Papay): History, Wildlife, and the Shortest Flight

Affectionately known as Papay, Papa Westray is one of Orkney's most enchanting northern isles. Measuring just four miles long by a mile wide, this small island packs an incredible punch in terms of history, wildlife, and unique experiences – including the world's shortest scheduled flight! Home to around 90 residents, Papay offers a glimpse into a close-knit island community, surrounded by fertile farmland, stunning coastlines, and archaeological sites that stretch back over 5,500 years. Discover the magic of Papay, the 'Island of the Priests'.

Papay: The Pope's Island Overview

Papa Westray's name likely derives from the Old Norse 'Papar-ey', meaning 'Island of the Priests' or 'Hermits', possibly referring to early Celtic Christian missionaries who settled here before the Vikings arrived. Its fertile soils have supported farming for millennia, earning it a reputation as a productive agricultural island despite its small size. Today, farming and lobster fishing remain key industries, alongside tourism and crafts. The island community is known for its resilience and proactive approach, running its own community shop and fostering local initiatives through the Papay Development Trust.

Stepping Back in Time: Papay's Archaeology

Papay boasts some of the most significant archaeological sites in Orkney, offering insights into Neolithic and later life:

• Knap of Howar: This is Papay's star attraction – the oldest preserved stone houses in Northwestern Europe, dating back to around 3700-3500 BCE. Predating Skara Brae and even the Egyptian pyramids, these two interconnected, oblong structures offer an incredible glimpse into Neolithic domestic life. Explore the remarkably preserved stone walls, internal partitions (possibly beds), hearths, and stone 'aumbry' (cupboard). The site's coastal location highlights the importance of the sea to these early farmers. Managed by Historic Environment Scotland, access is free.
• St Boniface Kirk: A beautiful historic church with origins potentially dating back to the 8th century (pre-Norse Christian settlement), though the current structure is largely medieval. It features fascinating architectural details and, in its graveyard, a rare Viking hogback gravestone and early Christian cross-slabs, illustrating the layers of history on Papay.
• Holm of Papay Chambered Cairn: A short boat trip (arranged via the Papay Ranger) takes you to this uninhabited islet housing a large Neolithic cairn (approx. 3000 BCE). Unusually, it contains 12 side cells opening off its main passage and features intriguing Neolithic carvings, including 'eyebrow' motifs and zigzags.
• Holland House & Farm Museum: The former laird's house offers insights into Papay's more recent agricultural past, with displays of traditional farming implements and island life artefacts.
• St Tredwell's Chapel & Loch: The ruins of a medieval pilgrimage chapel situated on a small peninsula in St Tredwell's Loch, associated with healing traditions.

Wildlife Haven: North Hill RSPB Reserve

The northern end of Papa Westray is dominated by the North Hill RSPB Reserve, a crucial breeding ground for seabirds:

• Arctic Terns & Skuas: The reserve hosts one of the UK's largest Arctic Tern colonies (listen for their noisy calls!) and significant numbers of Arctic Skuas (Bonxies). Visit between May and August for the best chance to see them nesting and raising chicks (be aware Skuas can be protective and may dive-bomb intruders!).
• Puffins & Other Seabirds: Puffins nest on the cliffs alongside guillemots, razorbills, and fulmars.
• Rare Flora: North Hill is one of the few places in the world to find the delicate purple flower, the Scottish Primrose (Primula scotica), blooming in early summer.

Walking the coastal paths around North Hill offers fantastic wildlife viewing opportunities, but always stick to paths and avoid disturbing nesting birds.

The World's Shortest Flight

Papa Westray shares a unique claim to fame with its neighbour, Westray: the world's shortest scheduled passenger flight. Operated by Loganair using small Britten-Norman Islander aircraft, the flight between Westray and Papa Westray covers just 1.7 miles.

• Duration: Officially scheduled for 90 seconds, the flight time can be under a minute depending on wind direction!
• Experience: Offers incredible aerial views of the islands, coastline, and potentially seals on the skerries below. A truly memorable travel experience.
• Booking: Bookable via the Loganair website. It's possible to combine the flight with ferry journeys for a unique island-hopping day trip.

Getting To and Around Papay

• Ferry: Orkney Ferries operate services to Papay from Kirkwall (approx. 2.5 hours, usually twice weekly, takes vehicles) and Pierowall on Westray (approx. 25 minutes, passenger-only, connects with Kirkwall-Westray ferry/flight). Check timetables and book vehicle spaces well in advance.
• Flight: Loganair flies from Kirkwall to Papay (often via Westray).
• Getting Around: Papay is small enough to explore on foot or by bike (bike hire may be available via the community shop or accommodation providers - enquire ahead). The Papay Ranger offers guided walks and tours, including boat trips to the Holm of Papay.

Island Amenities and Staying Over

• Accommodation: Options are limited but include the community-run Beltane House hostel (offering dorm beds and camping) and several self-catering cottages. Booking is essential.
• Food & Drink: The Papay Community Shop stocks groceries and essentials. Beltane House often hosts a popular community pub night on Saturdays. Check locally for any cafe or meal options, as these can be seasonal.
• Papay Ranger: The island ranger is a fantastic resource, offering guided walks focusing on archaeology, wildlife, and geology, plus boat trips. Check the Papay Development Trust website for contact details and tour schedules.

Explore Papay's ancient sites with local expert Nick Card:

Frequently Asked Questions

How long is the world's shortest flight?

The flight between Westray and Papa Westray is officially 90 seconds, but can be as quick as 53 seconds.

Can I visit the Knap of Howar?

Yes, the site is managed by Historic Environment Scotland and is freely accessible, located a short walk from the road near Holland House.

Is Papa Westray worth visiting for a day trip?

Yes, a day trip is possible, especially combining the short flight with the ferry. However, staying overnight allows for a more relaxed exploration of the island's sites and wildlife.

Are there shops or pubs on Papa Westray?

There is a community-run shop for essentials. The Beltane House hostel usually runs a community pub night on Saturdays, but there isn't a full-time pub.

Papa Westray offers a unique Orkney experience, combining world-class archaeology like the Knap of Howar with internationally important bird reserves and the charm of a small, resilient island community. Whether you arrive via the world's shortest flight or the scenic ferry route, Papay provides a powerful connection to Orkney's deep past and vibrant present. Consider Orkney accommodation on Papay or nearby Westray for an unforgettable North Isles adventure.