Orkney Cheese Trail: Dairies, Tastings, and Local Pairings

Orkney Cheese Trail: Dairies, Tastings, and Local Pairings

May 23, 2025

Orkney's cheese-making heritage combines centuries-old traditions with unique island terroir, producing world-renowned cheddars and artisanal farmhouse varieties. This trail guide explores the islands' dairy treasures through their history, key producers, tasting experiences, and perfect pairings.

1. Historical Foundations & Terroir

Orkney's cheese legacy stems from WWII-era surplus milk production for 60,000 stationed troops[2][3]. Post-1946, farmers established cooperatives like the Orkney Cheese Company, now producers of PGI-protected Orkney Scottish Island Cheddar[4][5]. The terroir features:

  • Mineral-rich pastures: Deep topsoil enriched by sea iodine/sulphur[4][6]
  • Gulf Stream climate: Temperate conditions supporting year-round lush grass[6]
  • Unique milk profile: Stress-free Ayrshire/Holstein cows grazing near seaweed-rich coasts yield high-butterfat milk (≥48% in PGI cheddar)[4][6]

Traditional methods persist, including the dry-stir technique (continuously stirring curds pre-salting) for dense texture[4], and cloth-bound maturation in 8°C stores[3].

2. Key Producers & Cheesemakers

Orkney Cheese Company (Kirkwall)

  • Scale: Processes 1,500L milk batches (1hr filling time)[3]
  • Flagship Products:
    • Orkney Mature Cheddar: 12-15mo maturation, closed texture[3][4]
    • Smoked Cheddar: Island Smokery cold-smokes using whisky barrel oak[9]
    • Flavored Variants: Garlic/chilli, red onion (collabs with Island Smokery)[3][9]
  • Visits: Public viewing platform for 11AM curd-cutting sessions[3]
Exterior of the Orkney Creamery in Kirkwall.

Grimbister Farm Cheese (Finstown)

  • Heritage: Hilda Seator’s 1940s household recipe now produced by son Christopher[1][3]
  • Characteristics:
    • Fresh, lactic tang from 4-day maturation[3]
    • Crumbly texture ideal for frying (restaurant staple)[1][3]
  • Availability: Local delis & Kirkwall’s Frozen Food Centre[1][2]
Close-up of traditional Grimbister Farmhouse cheese.

Westray Wife Cheese (Wilsons of Westray)

  • Artisan Profile: Washed-rind using whey from Jason/Nina Wilson's 20-cow herd[3]
  • Flavors: Savory umami from 2-month cave aging[3]
  • Naming: Inspired by Neolithic "Westray Wife" figurine[3]
Artisan Westray Wife cheese showing its distinctive rind.

Emerging Producers

  • Burnside Cheese: Newcomer (2023) offering smoked and pepper/chive variants[7]
  • The Island Smokery: Specializes in smoked Orkney Cheddar (garlic/chilli options)[9]

3. Tasting Profiles

CheeseTextureFlavor NotesBest For
Orkney Extra MatureFirm, silkySharp citrus, caramelized onionCheese boards[4][6]
GrimbisterFriable, moistFresh lemon, grassy undertonesFried starters[1][3]
Westray WifeSemi-softFarmyard funk, sweet brineBeer pairing[3]
Smoked CheddarDense, oilyCampfire smoke, hickoryOatcake topping[9]

4. Where to Source & Savor

Farm Shops

  • Barony Mill (Birsay): Pair bere bannocks with Grimbister[8]
  • William Shearer (Kirkwall): Stocks Westray Wife & smoked variants[3]

Urban Outlets

  • Kirkwall:
    • Argo’s Bakery: Smoked cheddar biscuits[7]
    • Frozen Food Centre: Pattie suppers with cheese fillings[1]
  • Stromness: Island Smokery factory shop (garlic cheddar)[9]

Restaurants

  • Lynnfield Hotel: Cheese boards with Burnside yoghurt dips[10]
  • Kirkwall/Mainland eateries: Fried Grimbister with rowan jelly[3]

5. Pairing Recommendations

Cheese TypeLocal CompanionWhy It Works
Mature CheddarSwannay Brewery’s Orkney BlastMalt sweetness balances sharpness[8]
GrimbisterStockan’s Oatcakes + crowberry jamCrunch contrasts creaminess[1][6]
Westray WifeHighland Park 12YOPeat smoke mirrors rind funk[8]
Smoked VariantsOrkney Fudge CheesecakeSweet/smoky harmony[1][7]

6. Video Resources

To find relevant videos, search YouTube for "Orkney Cheese Company production" or "making Grimbister cheese".

Frequently Asked Questions

Is Orkney Cheddar vegetarian?

Yes, Orkney Cheddar produced by the Orkney Cheese Company uses vegetarian rennet.

Can you visit the cheese farms/dairies?

The Orkney Creamery has a viewing gallery. Visits to Grimbister Farm or Wilsons of Westray are generally not available unless by special prior arrangement.

Where is the best place to buy Orkney cheese?

For the widest selection, visit specialist delis in Kirkwall or Stromness, or the Orkney Creamery shop itself.

What makes Grimbister cheese different?

It's a fresh, unpasteurised farmhouse cheese with a short maturation, giving it a unique crumbly texture and tangy flavour, unlike typical cheddars.

Embarking on an Orkney cheese trail is a delicious way to connect with the islands' agricultural heritage and landscape. From the world-famous cheddar to unique farmhouse and artisan varieties, there's a flavour profile to suit every palate. Be sure to sample them alongside local bannocks and ales for the full Orcadian experience. Find Orkney accommodation and plan your culinary adventure.

Craig Sandeman

Written By

Craig Sandeman

Island hopper, website builder, and hiking enthusiast exploring Orkney's beauty.

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