Orkney's Historic Churches and Spiritual Sites Through the Ages

Orkney's spiritual landscape spans millennia, blending Neolithic mysticism, Pictish Christianity, Norse sanctity, and post-Reformation adaptations into a tapestry of sacred sites unequaled in northern Europe. This remote archipelago preserves stone circles older than the pyramids, rare Norse-era churches, and modern symbols of faith forged in wartime adversity.

I. Millennia of Spiritual Evolution

Orkney's spiritual journey begins with Neolithic farmers (3100-2500 BCE) who constructed monumental ritual complexes like the Ring of Brodgar stone circle and Maeshowe chambered tomb, aligned to solstices[6][9]. These sites suggest sophisticated cosmological understanding, with the Stones of Stenness potentially serving as a "Neolithic cathedral"[3].

Pictish Christians likely maintained hermitages on islands like Papa Westray before Norse arrival c.800 CE[4][8]. Viking settlers introduced Norse paganism, evidenced by place names like Tingwall (assembly field), before Earl Sigurd's 995 conversion[1]. Medieval Christianity flourished under Norse Earls, culminating in St Magnus Cathedral (1137), while the 1560 Reformation transformed worship practices, repurposing sites like Eynhallow Church into dwellings[1][4].

II. Pre-Christian & Early Christian Foundations

Neolithic Ceremonial Landscape

• Ring of Brodgar: 104m-diameter stone circle with 27 surviving megaliths, part of a ritual complex including the Comet Stone alignment[6][9].
• Maeshowe: Passage grave with winter solstice alignment and 12th-century Norse runic inscriptions[3][6].
• Barnhouse Settlement: Ritual village adjacent to Stenness stones, featuring unique "House 2" ceremonial structure[9].

Early Christian Presence

The Brough of Deerness reveals a potential 10th-century chapel with Pictish foundations[1], while Papa Westray (Old Norse: "Priest's Island") suggests 8th-century Irish monastic influence[4]. Excavations at St Boniface Kirk (Papa Westray) uncovered a rare 10th-century Norse hogback gravestone – a fusion of Celtic and Scandinavian styles[4][8].

III. Norse-Era Ecclesiastical Marvels

St Magnus Cathedral

Founded 1137 by Earl Rognvald Kolsson in Romanesque style, this red sandstone marvel houses:

• Relics of St Magnus: Murdered 1117, enshrined in a pillar nave[10]
• Transitional Architecture: Norman rounded arches transitioning to early Gothic in later additions[4]
• Ecumenical Legacy: Served Norwegian Catholic, Scottish Episcopal, and Presbyterian congregations[10]

Orphir Round Kirk (12th Century)

Scotland's only surviving medieval round church, modeled on Jerusalem's Church of the Holy Sepulchre:

• Built by Earl Haakon Paulsson (Magnus' killer) as penance[4][8]
• Adjacent to Earl's Bu - Viking feasting hall with 11m-long fireplace[4]

Brough of Birsay Complex

Tidal island with layered sacred history:

1. Pictish Settlement: 6th-century artifacts[8]
2. Norse Church: Saint Peter's Kirk (1060s) with rare stone benches[1]
3. St Magnus Connection: Initial burial site post-martyrdom (1117)[5]

Other Key Norse Sites:

• St Olaf's Kirk (Kirkwall): Possible foundations beneath Bishop's Palace, named for Norway's patron saint[1]
• Westside Church (Westray): Best-preserved Norse parish kirk with original Romanesque chancel arch[4]

IV. Medieval to Modern Transformations

Reformation Impact

Post-1560 changes saw:

• Eynhallow Monastery converted to croft houses[4]
• Lady Kirk (Pierowall): Medieval church rebuilt with Protestant pulpit focus[4]
• Graffiti: 17th-century biblical texts etched into St Magnus Church walls (Birsay)[5]

Notable Post-Medieval Sites

• St Magnus Church (Egilsay): 12th-century martyrium with unique round tower (18m original height)[2][4]
• St Mary's Chapel (Wyre): 12th-century Crusader's church with Celtic-Norse hybrid carvings[4]

V. Modern Sanctuary: The Italian Chapel

WWII POWs transformed Nissen huts into a Baroque-inspired sanctuary on Lamb Holm:

• Artists: Domenico Chiocchetti (frescoes), Giuseppe Palumbi (wrought iron)
• Features: Trompe l'oeil brickwork, stained glass from ration tin[4]
• Legacy: Maintained as reconciliation symbol by Orcadians and ex-POWs

VI. Visiting Orkney's Spiritual Sites

Access & Etiquette

• Tidal Sites: Brough of Birsay accessible 1.5hrs either side low tide[8]
• Preservation: Avoid touching carved stones (oils damage surfaces)
• Guided Tours: St Magnus Cathedral offers free midday tours (M-Sat)[10]

Key Resources

• Orkney Museum (Kirkwall): Exhibits Christian and pagan artifacts
• Historic Environment Scotland: Manages 12 protected religious sites ([HES Orkney][2])
• St Magnus Way: 58-mile pilgrimage route with six spiritual stages[7]

VII. Recommended YouTube Resources

To find relevant videos, search YouTube for "St Magnus Cathedral Orkney history" or "Orphir Round Kirk".

Frequently Asked Questions

Is St Magnus Cathedral Catholic or Protestant?

It was founded as a Roman Catholic cathedral in 1137 but became Protestant (Church of Scotland) after the Scottish Reformation in 1560. Today, it serves the Kirkwall parish but is owned by the Burgh of Kirkwall, not the church itself.

Can you visit the Italian Chapel?

Yes, the Italian Chapel on Lamb Holm is open to visitors year-round and is easily accessible via the Churchill Barriers by road.

Are Orkney's ancient tombs considered spiritual sites?

Yes, Neolithic sites like Maeshowe and the Ring of Brodgar were clearly important ceremonial and likely spiritual centres for prehistoric communities, connected to beliefs about life, death, and the cosmos.

Where was St Magnus killed?

Tradition holds that St Magnus was martyred on the island of Egilsay, where the St Magnus Church now stands.

This spiritual archipelago offers rare continuity from Neolithic star-watchers to Norse stonecarvers and modern caretakers – each era adding layers to Orkney's enduring sanctity. Consider accommodation in Kirkwall as a base for visiting St Magnus Cathedral and nearby sites.