Exploring Westray: The Queen of Orkney's Northern Isles

Westray, affectionately known as Orkney's "Queen o' the Isles," offers a captivating blend of ancient history, dramatic wildlife spectacles, and a vibrant local culture. From towering sea cliffs teeming with birds to millennia-old settlements and imposing castles, this northern isle provides a rich microcosm of Orkney's unique charm. Whether you're drawn by the call of seabirds or the whispers of history, Westray promises an unforgettable experience.

Noup Head RSPB Reserve: A Seabird City

Prepare to be amazed by the sheer scale of life at the Noup Head RSPB Reserve. These dramatic 76-metre cliffs host Orkney’s largest seabird colony, a bustling metropolis of over 100,000 birds during the summer months. Listen to the cacophony of calls from guillemots, razorbills, kittiwakes, and gannets clinging to the ledges. The coastal path leading to the lighthouse offers stunning views and winds through clifftops carpeted with wildflowers, including the rare and beautiful Scottish primrose (Primula Scotica). It's a truly immersive wildlife experience.

Castle o' Burrian: Puffin Paradise

For many visitors, the highlight of Westray is seeing the iconic Atlantic Puffin. One of the best and most accessible places to spot these colourful birds is Castle o' Burrian, a sea stack near the Rapness ferry terminal. From April to early August, hundreds of puffins, or "tammie norries" as they're locally known, nest in burrows on the grassy slopes. The relatively low cliffs provide excellent, safe vantage points for observing and photographing these charming birds as they go about their business, often returning with beaks full of sand eels in the late afternoon. Remember to keep a respectful distance and avoid disturbing their nesting sites.

Noltland Castle: A Fortress of Intrigue

Step back into a turbulent period of Scottish history at Noltland Castle. This imposing Z-plan fortress was started in the 16th century by Gilbert Balfour, the ambitious and controversial Sheriff of Orkney under Mary Queen of Scots. Though never fully completed, its scale is impressive, boasting an extraordinary 71 gunloops and a grand staircase. The castle's roofless state adds to its atmosphere, allowing you to wander through its halls and imagine the political intrigue it was built amidst. It stands as a powerful reminder of the strategic importance of Orkney during a volatile era.

Westray Heritage Centre & The Westray Wife

Delve deeper into Westray's rich past at the excellent Westray Heritage Centre in Pierowall village. The star exhibit is the 'Westray Wife' (or Orkney Venus), a small Neolithic figurine discovered locally, believed to be the earliest representation of the human form found in Scotland, dating back around 5,000 years. You can also see the intricately carved Westray Stone and explore fascinating displays on the island's fishing, farming, and social history. The centre often hosts themed exhibitions and is a great resource for genealogical research.

Exploring Pierowall Village

Pierowall, the main village on Westray, is a charming hub of island life clustered around a picturesque bay. Wander its streets, visit the local shops, and soak up the atmosphere. Don't miss a visit to WFM Brown's Bakery, a local institution since 1892, renowned for its traditional Orkney biscuits like *fattie cutties*. Enjoy coffee and cake or a sourdough pizza at Saintear Café overlooking Loch Saintear, or sample local ales and hearty pub fare at the Pierowall Hotel. It's the perfect base for exploring the rest of the island.

Getting To and Around Westray

Reaching Westray is part of the adventure. Orkney Ferries operate a regular 90-minute service from Kirkwall on the Orkney Mainland to Rapness at the southern tip of Westray (check timetable and book here). A connecting bus service can take you from the ferry terminal to Pierowall. Alternatively, Loganair offers short, scenic flights from Kirkwall directly to Westray Airport. For a unique experience, you can even take the world's shortest scheduled flight (around 90 seconds!) between Westray and neighbouring Papa Westray. Once on the island, consider local taxi services or guided tours like Westraak Tours for exploring, especially if you don't have your own vehicle. Pre-booking transport is highly recommended, particularly during peak season.

Practical Tips for Visiting Westray

• Best Time to Visit: May to August offers the best chance to see puffins and the full spectacle of the seabird colonies.
• Booking Ahead: Accommodation and transport (ferries/flights) should be booked well in advance, especially for summer visits. Check out Orkney accommodation options early.
• Weather Preparedness: Pack layers, including waterproofs and windproofs, regardless of the season. Orkney weather can change rapidly. Refer to our expert packing list for guidance.
• Supplies: Pierowall has shops for essentials, but options are more limited than on the Mainland.
• Respect Wildlife: Keep a safe distance from nesting birds and seals. Follow guidelines at RSPB reserves.
• Local Information: The Westray Development Trust website is a great resource for local events and services.

Frequently Asked Questions about Westray

How long does the ferry to Westray take?

The ferry from Kirkwall to Rapness on Westray takes approximately 90 minutes.

Can you see puffins on Westray?

Yes, Castle o' Burrian is one of the best places in Orkney to see puffins, typically from April to early August.

Is Noltland Castle free to enter?

Noltland Castle is managed by Historic Environment Scotland. Entry is often free, but it's best to check their official website for current access information and opening times.

Are there places to eat on Westray?

Yes, options include the Pierowall Hotel, Saintear Café, and WFM Brown Bakery in Pierowall village.

Can I do a day trip to Westray?

Yes, a day trip is possible using the ferry or flights, but staying longer allows for a more relaxed exploration of the island's many attractions.

Westray truly embodies the spirit of the Orkney islands – a place where history feels tangible, nature is wild and abundant, and community thrives. Whether you spend a day or a week, the "Queen o' the Isles" offers a rich and rewarding experience. Ready to explore? Find your perfect Westray accommodation and start planning your adventure.