Exploring Sanday: Beaches, Archaeology, and Island Life

Exploring Sanday: Beaches, Archaeology, and Island Life

May 17, 2025

Escape to Sanday, the largest of Orkney's North Isles and an island defined by its breathtaking coastline. Aptly nicknamed the 'Island of Bays', Sanday boasts miles of pristine white-sand beaches, vast dune systems, and a remarkably rich archaeological landscape stretching back over 5,000 years. With its low-lying, fertile land, abundant wildlife, and close-knit community, Sanday offers a tranquil yet fascinating glimpse into Orkney's unique blend of nature, history, and island life. Discover why this captivating island deserves a place on your Orkney itinerary.

Sanday's Stunning Beaches

Sanday's coastline is its crowning glory, featuring some of the most beautiful and extensive beaches in Orkney:

  • Cata Sand & Tresness: This vast tidal bay on the east coast is spectacular. At low tide, huge expanses of sand are revealed, perfect for walking. The area is flanked by Orkney's largest dune system at Tresness, a haven for wildlife and site of recent archaeological discoveries, including Neolithic houses and whale burials.
  • Whitemill Bay: Located on the north coast, this sweeping crescent of white sand offers stunning views towards North Ronaldsay and is ideal for long, peaceful walks.
  • Bay of Lopness: Famous for the wreck of the WWI German destroyer B98, which ran aground here in 1919 and is visible at low tide. The two-mile beach is backed by dunes.
  • Doun Helzie: A more secluded beach on the southeast coast, reached via a walk through dunes, rewarding visitors with dramatic rock formations, arches, and caves accessible at low tide.

These beaches are not just beautiful; they are dynamic environments where history is constantly being revealed by the shifting sands and tides.

Aerial view of a stunning white sand beach and dunes on Sanday, Orkney.

Archaeological Treasures

While perhaps less famous than the Mainland's Neolithic heartland, Sanday possesses significant archaeological sites:

  • Quoyness Chambered Cairn: Situated dramatically on the Elsness peninsula near Sty Wick beach, this impressive Maeshowe-type passage grave dates back to around 3000 BCE. Visitors can crawl through the low entrance passage into the high, corbelled main chamber and explore its side cells. Its scale and coastal setting make it one of Orkney's most atmospheric tombs.
  • Scar Viking Boat Burial: Although the finds are now in the Orkney Museum, the site near the coast marks one of Britain's most important Viking discoveries – a 10th-century boat grave containing the remains of an elderly woman, a man, and a child, along with rich grave goods including a unique whalebone plaque.
  • Coastal Erosion Sites: Ongoing archaeological work, particularly at Cata Sand, continues to uncover evidence of Neolithic and later settlements revealed by coastal erosion, highlighting the long history of human habitation shaped by the sea.

Exploring these sites offers a tangible connection to Sanday's ancient past, from its earliest farmers to the era of Viking settlement.

Entrance and passage grave of Quoyness chambered cairn, Sanday.

Island Life and Community

Sanday has a vibrant and active community of around 500 residents, a mix of multi-generational island families and newer arrivals.

  • Settlements: Kettletoft is the main hub with the ferry terminal, hotel, and shop. Lady Village hosts the school and Heritage Centre.
  • Economy: Traditionally based on farming (Sanday is known as 'Orkney's Granary'), supplemented by fishing, crafts, and tourism.
  • Amenities: The island has well-stocked shops, a school, a doctor's surgery, a heritage centre, and various community groups.
  • Events: Look out for the annual Sanday Show (usually August) featuring livestock competitions and local crafts, and the Sanday Soulka, a summer festival celebrating island life with boat trips, food, and music.
  • Arts & Crafts: Several artists and craftspeople live and work on Sanday; check the Orkney Craft Trail for details or visit the Sanday Heritage Centre shop.

Wildlife Watching Opportunities

Sanday's diverse habitats support a rich array of wildlife:

  • Seals: Both Grey and Common (Harbour) seals are abundant around the coast. They can often be seen hauled out on beaches like Cata Sand or swimming in Kettletoft harbour. Remember to keep a respectful distance.
  • Birds: The island is excellent for birdwatching. Vast sandy bays attract large numbers of wading birds. Arctic Terns nest in colonies on beaches like Tresness. The RSPB has reserves on the island, and coastal walks offer chances to see seabirds and potentially birds of prey.
  • Otters: While elusive, otters frequent Sanday's coastline. Dawn and dusk offer the best chances of spotting them, particularly around quieter bays like Tresness or Backaskaill.
Group of Harbour Seals hauled out on a beach on Sanday.

Getting To and Around Sanday

  • Ferry: Orkney Ferries operate a regular vehicle and passenger service from Kirkwall several times daily. The journey takes between 1 hour 45 minutes and 2 hours 15 minutes, depending on the route (some sailings go via Eday or Stronsay). Booking is essential for vehicles. (Orkney Ferries Website)
  • Flights: Loganair operates short (approx. 20 minute) flights between Kirkwall Airport and Sanday Airport (NDY). This offers stunning aerial views but requires onward transport from the airfield. (Loganair Website)
  • Getting Around: Sanday's relatively flat terrain and quiet roads make it ideal for cycling. Bike hire can often be arranged via the Sanday Development Trust or accommodation providers. Bringing your own car on the ferry provides the most flexibility for exploring the dispersed sites and beaches.
Cyclist on a quiet road through farmland on Sanday, Orkney.

To find relevant videos, search YouTube for "Sanday Orkney beaches" or "Exploring Sanday island".

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does the ferry to Sanday take?

The journey from Kirkwall takes approximately 1 hour 45 minutes to 2 hours 15 minutes, depending on the specific route and stops.

Can I take my car to Sanday?

Yes, Orkney Ferries operates a vehicle service, but booking well in advance is essential due to limited space.

Are there shops and places to eat on Sanday?

Yes, there are well-stocked shops in Kettletoft and Lady Village. The Kettletoft Hotel offers meals, and there may be other small cafes or B&Bs providing food (check locally).

Is Sanday good for walking?

Yes, its extensive beaches and relatively flat terrain make it excellent for walking, although distances can be long. Coastal paths and quiet roads offer varied routes.

Sanday offers a captivating blend of natural beauty, deep history, and welcoming island life. Its stunning beaches are among the best in Scotland, while its archaeological sites provide a tangible link to thousands of years of human history. Whether you come for a day trip or a longer stay, Sanday promises peace, space, and unforgettable Orcadian scenery. Explore Orkney accommodation options to plan your island escape.

Craig Sandeman

Written By

Craig Sandeman

Island hopper, website builder, and hiking enthusiast exploring Orkney's beauty.

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