Orkney in Autumn: Colours, Migrating Birds, and Cosy Pubs

While summer draws the crowds, autumn unveils a different, perhaps more profound, beauty in Orkney. From September to November, the islands transition into a season of dramatic skies, rich colours, migrating wildlife, and cosy comforts. The frantic energy of summer gives way to a quieter, more contemplative atmosphere, offering a unique experience for visitors seeking atmospheric landscapes, spectacular bird migrations, and the warmth of a traditional Orkney welcome. Discover why autumn is a magical time to explore the archipelago.

The Autumn Landscape: Colours and Light

As summer fades, Orkney's landscape transforms. The vibrant greens give way to a palette of rich, earthy tones. Heather cloaking the hills turns a deep russet and ochre, while grasses in the fields and moorlands take on golden hues. The low autumn sun casts long shadows, highlighting the textures of ancient stones and dramatic cliffs. This quality of light, often described as crystal-clear due to the clean air, is particularly prized by photographers seeking to capture the islands' stark beauty.

Autumn weather in Orkney is famously changeable. Expect cooler temperatures (typically 5-12°C), increased wind speeds, and the possibility of dramatic Atlantic storms rolling in. While sunshine is still frequent, be prepared for sudden squalls and rain showers. This dynamic weather contributes to the season's appeal, creating spectacular cloud formations, powerful wave action along the coasts (especially at Yesnaby and Marwick Head), and breathtaking sunsets and sunrises when the clouds break.

Wildlife Spectacles: Migrants and Pups

Autumn is a prime time for wildlife watching in Orkney:

• Bird Migrations: Orkney becomes a crucial stopover and wintering ground for thousands of birds. Witness vast skeins of Pink-footed Geese arriving from Iceland and Greenland (up to 40,000!), filling the fields and reserves like Loch of Banks. Elegant Whooper Swans arrive from Iceland to winter on the lochs (Loch of Swannay, Loch of Stenness). Waders like redshanks, curlews, and golden plovers gather on the shorelines. RSPB reserves like Cottascarth and The Loons offer excellent viewing hides.
• Grey Seal Pupping Season: From late October through November, Orkney's grey seal colonies become nurseries. Head to coastal spots like Windwick Bay on South Ronaldsay or certain beaches on Sanday or Stronsay (check locally for best, safest viewing spots) to potentially observe fluffy white seal pups from a safe distance on cliff tops. It is crucial to never approach seals on beaches, especially during pupping season, as disturbance can cause mothers to abandon their pups. Use binoculars for a great view while respecting their space.

Cosy Indoor Escapes

When the weather turns wild, Orkney offers plenty of warm and welcoming indoor retreats:

• Museums: Delve into 5,000 years of island history at the Orkney Museum in Kirkwall, explore maritime heritage at the Stromness Museum, or learn about wartime Scapa Flow at the Scapa Flow Museum on Hoy (check seasonal opening times for all).
• Galleries: The Pier Arts Centre in Stromness houses a significant collection of British modernist art and hosts changing exhibitions. Numerous smaller galleries along the Orkney Craft Trail showcase local talent.
• Craft Workshops: Many local artisans offer workshops – try your hand at pottery, jewellery making, or textiles. Check the Creative Orkney website for listings.
• Cosy Pubs: Retreat to a traditional pub like The Ferry Inn in Stromness or The Reel or Helgis in Kirkwall. Many boast welcoming peat fires during the colder months, perfect for enjoying a local ale (from Swannay Brewery or Orkney Brewery) or a dram of Highland Park or Scapa whisky.
• Local Flavours: Enjoy hearty autumn fare featuring local produce. Try traditional bere bannocks (made from Orkney's ancient barley) with Orkney cheese or butter, or sample warming soups and stews in local cafes.

Autumn Events and Festivals

While the summer festival season winds down, autumn still offers unique cultural experiences:

• Orkney International Science Festival (September): A long-running festival blending cutting-edge science with Orkney's heritage and environment through talks, walks, and family events.
• Orkney Storytelling Festival (October): Celebrating the islands' rich oral traditions with local and visiting storytellers sharing myths, legends, and histories in atmospheric venues.
• Harvest Time: While not a formal festival, autumn is harvest time. Look out for local produce markets or farm shops selling seasonal goods like neeps (turnips), tatties (potatoes), and Orkney Bere Barley products.

To find relevant videos, search YouTube for "Orkney Storytelling Festival" or "Orkney Science Festival".

Practical Advice for Autumn Travel

• Packing: Layers are key! Include thermal base layers, fleeces, a waterproof and windproof outer jacket, waterproof trousers, sturdy walking boots, hat, scarf, and gloves. Refer to our expert packing list.
• Driving: Daylight hours decrease significantly through autumn. Plan driving routes accordingly and be prepared for potentially challenging conditions like strong winds, heavy rain, or even early frosts. Check our driving in Orkney guide.
• Booking: While quieter than summer, it's still wise to book accommodation and ferry travel (especially with a vehicle) in advance, particularly around festival times or school holidays.
• Opening Times: Some visitor attractions, cafes, and smaller shops may have reduced opening hours or close for the season from October onwards. Always check websites or call ahead before visiting.

Frequently Asked Questions

How windy is Orkney in autumn?

Autumn is typically windier than summer, with the possibility of strong gales, especially from October onwards. Always check the forecast.

Can you see the Northern Lights in Orkney in autumn?

Yes, as the nights get longer from September onwards, the chances of seeing the Aurora Borealis increase, although clear skies are needed.

Is it a good time for birdwatching?

Yes, autumn is excellent for seeing huge flocks of migrating geese and swans, as well as various waders and potentially rare vagrants blown off course.

Are many things closed in Orkney in autumn?

Major sites usually remain open until at least the end of October, but some smaller attractions, cafes, and seasonal businesses may close or have reduced hours. It's best to check ahead.

Autumn in Orkney offers a unique blend of dramatic natural beauty, exciting wildlife migrations, and cosy cultural experiences. It's a time to embrace the elements, witness the changing seasons, and enjoy the islands' warm hospitality away from the summer crowds. Find your perfect autumnal retreat from our selection of Orkney accommodation.