Stronsay, Orkney: Vat of Kirbister, Beaches & Day Trip

Stronsay is the green, low-lying heart of Orkney's North Isles — an island so deeply indented by the sea that it earned a perfect nickname: the Island of Bays. Three broad bays bite into its coast, fringed by some of the finest white-sand beaches in Orkney and joined by narrow necks of land. It hides Orkney's most spectacular sea arch, a fishing past that once made it one of Scotland's great herring ports, and a famous monster washed up on its shore. Quiet today and easy to reach, it's one of the most rewarding day trips — or slow weeks — in the islands. This is the full 2026 guide.

Where is Stronsay?

Stronsay lies in the eastern group of Orkney's North Isles, north-east of Kirkwall and a short hop from its neighbours Eday and Sanday. It is large by North Isles standards — 3,275 hectares (13 square miles) — yet remarkably low and gentle, rising to under 50 metres at its highest point, Burgh Hill, so the whole island feels open to the sky and the sea. The 2022 census recorded 321 residents, a fraction of the thousands who once crowded its herring station but a steady, friendly community today, centred on the harbour village of Whitehall. Its shape is its signature: so many inlets and bays that no part of the island is far from a beach.

The Island of Bays — Three Beaches, Endless Shore

Stronsay's nickname is earned the moment you look at a map. Three great bays — St Catherine's Bay to the west, the Bay of Holland to the south and Mill Bay to the east — cut so deeply into the island that they are separated only by two narrow isthmuses. The result is a coastline far longer than the island's size suggests, and a string of clean, pale, almost always empty beaches.

These are beaches for walking, beachcombing and quiet swimming rather than crowds. Wildflowers bloom behind the shore in summer, and the shallow, turquoise water of the bays is inviting on a still day — though this is the North Sea, so expect it cold. Bring a flask, expect to have the sand to yourself, and watch for seals along the shoreline.

The Vat of Kirbister — Orkney's Finest Sea Arch

For all its gentle bays, Stronsay's east coast turns suddenly dramatic at the Vat of Kirbister — a great natural rock arch spanning a collapsed sea cave, widely described as the finest natural arch in Orkney. The roof of a huge, almost circular sea cave has fallen in, and the sea surges in beneath the surviving arch to fill the inlet left behind — what Orkney calls a "gloup". It is the island's signature sight, and the walk out to it along the low cliffs is a highlight in its own right.

• Getting there: park in the lay-by on the minor road at Kirbister, on the east side of the island, and follow the path between the fields to the shore, then along the low cliffs to the arch. Wear sturdy footwear and keep well back from the edge — it is only partly fenced, some of the rock and turf around the Vat is unstable, and you should never walk on the arch itself.
• Best light: a bright day with the tide working through the arch shows the clear green water at its best.
• Combine with: the wider east-coast cliffs, which hold nesting seabirds in early summer and are excellent for spotting seals on the rocks below.

Whitehall and the Great Herring Boom

It is hard to believe, standing on the quiet harbour front today, that Whitehall was once one of the busiest herring ports in Scotland. Through the late 19th century and up to the First World War, the "silver darlings" drew a vast seasonal fleet to Stronsay. At its peak the village supported 15 fish-curing stations and, famously, no fewer than 40 pubs, along with bakeries, butchers, ice-cream parlours and a cinema.

For some six weeks each season the island's population, normally around 1,200 at the time, would swell to over 5,000 — gutters, packers, coopers and crews from all over. Local lore holds that the boats packed in so thickly you could walk across their decks from Whitehall to the neighbouring isle of Papa Stronsay without wetting your feet. The old Fish Mart by the pier, built in the early 1900s as the trading centre for the herring industry, has since been refurbished as a hostel, with historic photographs and maps of the herring years still on display. It's a vivid reminder that these quiet islands were once humming centres of industry.

Seals, Seabirds and the Stronsay Beast

Stronsay is a quietly outstanding wildlife island. Seals haul out on the rocks and shingle around the bays, and the island has a strong record for migrant birds — its resident ornithologist logs scarce visitors every spring and autumn, with Yellow-browed Warblers, Barred Warbler and Red-backed Shrike among the autumn finds.

And then there is the island's strangest claim to fame. In 1808, after a storm, a vast 55-foot carcass washed ashore on Stronsay. Naturalists declared it a new species of sea serpent — the "Stronsay Beast" — and it caused a genuine scientific sensation, until the anatomist Everard Home argued it was the decayed remains of a basking shark, the explanation generally accepted today. The legend lives on as one of Orkney's best folklore tales. For the wider picture of what swims off these coasts, see the guide to Orkney's seals and marine life, and for the migrants that make landfall here, where to watch birds across Orkney.

Getting to Stronsay

Stronsay is one of the easier North Isles to reach, with both a daily ferry and a quick flight from Kirkwall, so self-catering flats and hostel beds in Kirkwall make a practical base to travel out from.

• By air (Loganair): about 10 minutes from Kirkwall Airport on a direct flight (longer when it routes via Sanday), on the Council-supported inter-isles service. Flights run Monday to Saturday, in the small eight-seat Britten-Norman Islander.
• By sea (Orkney Ferries): daily sailings from Kirkwall, a crossing of roughly 1½ to 2 hours depending on whether the sailing also calls at Eday or Sanday. The ferry takes vehicles — handy if you want to explore the bays by car.
• Fares: both are subsidised and good value, but timetables and prices change — check current fares and sailings directly with Loganair and Orkney Ferries before you travel.
• On the island: there's no car hire, so bring a car on the ferry, book the local taxi to meet you at the airfield, or borrow a bike — the development trust lends them free, and Orkney Ferries carries bicycles free. The flat terrain makes cycling between the bays a pleasure.

With a daily ferry and a short flight, Stronsay works well as a day trip, but it really rewards a night or two — and it slots neatly into a longer week of island-hopping around the North Isles. If you're building a multi-island route, the northernmost stop, North Ronaldsay, makes a memorable finale.

Where to Stay on Stronsay

Stronsay has a small, genuine choice of places to stay and eat — book ahead, especially in summer.

• The Stronsay Hotel: the island's hotel and pub in Whitehall, now community-owned and refurbished, with five en-suite bedrooms, a licensed bar and evening meals. The social hub for a meal and a pint.
• The Fish Mart: the old herring mart by the pier, now a hostel with en-suite rooms — handy for ferry arrivals. Its café's opening has varied, so check ahead before you count on it for a meal.
• Self-catering cottages: a handful of crofts and converted houses around the island, ideal for a few quiet, self-sufficient days among the bays.
• Provisions: two shops cover the essentials — Ebenezer Stores in Whitehall, open all week, and Olivebank Stores towards the middle of the island, open Monday to Saturday. There is no supermarket, so bring anything specific you need.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why is Stronsay called the Island of Bays?

Because its coastline is so deeply indented by the sea. Three large bays — St Catherine's Bay, the Bay of Holland and Mill Bay — cut into the island and are separated only by two narrow necks of land, giving Stronsay miles of shore and a string of beaches for its modest size. VisitOrkney's own guide to the island uses the nickname.

What is the Vat of Kirbister?

The Vat of Kirbister is a natural rock arch on Stronsay's east coast, formed where the roof of a large sea cave collapsed, leaving an arch over the flooded inlet (a "gloup"). It is widely described as the finest natural arch in Orkney and is reached by a short walk from a lay-by at Kirbister — keep well back from the edge, which is only partly fenced, and never walk on the arch.

What was the Stronsay Beast?

In 1808 a 55-foot carcass washed ashore on Stronsay after a storm. It was hailed as a new species of sea serpent and caused a scientific sensation, until the anatomist Everard Home argued it was the decomposed remains of a basking shark — the explanation generally accepted today. It remains one of Orkney's most famous pieces of folklore.

How do you get to Stronsay?

Two ways: a Loganair flight from Kirkwall Airport (about 10 minutes direct, Monday to Saturday) or an Orkney Ferries sailing from Kirkwall (roughly 1½–2 hours, daily, sometimes calling at Eday or Sanday). The ferry carries vehicles. Both are subsidised; check current fares and sailing times directly before you travel.

When is the best time to visit Stronsay?

Late spring to early autumn (May–September) is best — the beaches are at their most inviting, wildflowers and seabirds are out, and the migrant-bird watching peaks in spring and autumn. Ferry and flight timetables change between summer and winter, so check the current ones before you plan your days.

Is there anywhere to stay on Stronsay?

Yes. The community-owned Stronsay Hotel in Whitehall has five en-suite rooms and a bar; the Fish Mart by the pier is a hostel; and there are self-catering cottages around the island. There is no large hotel or supermarket, so book ahead and plan to self-cater for some meals.

Stronsay is the quiet all-rounder of Orkney's North Isles — empty beaches around every headland, the finest sea arch in the islands, an astonishing herring history written into a sleepy harbour, and a monster legend to tell over dinner. Easy to reach and easy to love, it deserves far more than the day most visitors give it.